Read up to page 21 of "Understanding Exposure". The exercise is outlined on pages 20 & 21.

In a nutshell.....
Put the camera on 'M' for manual
> select your lowest ISO
> select your aperture of f/8.0
> find the shutter speed to make the in-camera meter be at centre or '0' (+|||0|||- in the viewfinder - canon will be the other way around though)
> take the shot.
> increase ISO
> leave ap at f/8
> find the SS to make the in-camera meter be at centre or '0'
> take the shot
> repeat for each ISO available.

POST: ... pictures for each ISO setting. (We are aiming for correct in-camera exposures here, where your meter is at '0')

Please don't forget to post your thoughts and ideas on each post to help one another improve their photography.

Hi ya....
I did a very static test for the ISO homework, leaving the camera sitting on the table, so the distance didn't change....I haven't uploaded the photos as 5 pictures the same could be a little frustrating!....but the link below takes you to them and gives all the exif information. I can't see a lot of difference
http://www.flickr.com/photos/craig_pixie/sets/72157623190826363/detail/

Just sorting out the photos I took today and will upload those soon when I have chosen my favourites of the 232 I took!!!

By the way........Reactolite glasses are useless for reading the data in the viewfinder when they go to dark mode....to start with I thought my camera had broken, but then realised it was my glasses...so I will have to take an old pair with me

Great clear shots and as you say you can't really see much increase in grain. Your camera clearly handles the raise in ISO very well so you will know if you need extra light then to use higher ISO will not be too detrimental to the finished result.

Love the comment on reactolites

Hi!

My first FLICKR post & 1st Shutterbugs too! Struggled with posting direct, so I followed Pixie's approach.

See: http://www.flickr.com/photos/martindbaker/sets/72157623209623929/detail/

Welcome to the forum Martin and congratulations on your first posting.

You have some lovely clear shots there and looks like your camera is holding the ISO very well. You might be able to see more grain if you zoom in but you should be able to get away with raising your ISO if you need more light for your photos.

I do agree Laura, the last one with the higher ISO adds something to the photograph as it looks to have a little more texture to it. This is the advantage of shooting manually as you have control of the finished shot.

I found these on the web & thought they may be useful:

*Article by Bryan Petersen on apperture, shutter speed & ISO:http://photo.net/learn/basic-photo-tips/aperture-shutterspeed-iso/
* Article by Bryan Petersen on exposure: http://photo.net/learn/basic-photo-tips/correct-exposure/
* A camera simulator (shows effects of shutter & apperture changes): http://www.photonhead.com/simcam/shutteraperture.php
* "Manual" simulator (apperture, shutter & ISO): http://www.photonhead.com/beginners/stops.php
* Shutter & Apperture explanation: http://www.photonhead.com/beginners/shutterandaperture.php
* Sunny 16 rule: http://www.photokaboom.com/photography/learn/tips/054a_exposure_sunny_16.htm
* Lots of tips (including exposure & depth of field: http://www.photokaboom.com/_htm_menus/tips_menu.htm

And if anyone has an iPhone, then there is a free application in the iTunes store called "Expositor" - which helps you get the right settings given a certain light condition. See http://www.appstorehq.com/expositor-iphone-31625/app for more info. (Only the 1/3 stop version is free...)

I had a go with a couple of objects lying around. I chose to focus on the bottle label as I thought that might show up the difference in ISO settings quite well, but can't tell too much difference really!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23432151@N ... 56/detail/

As you say Sahil there seems little difference in the iso shots, by doing this excersise you can see that your camera holds the iso well at high settings.